Archivi categoria: Food and Wine

Judging a wine by its label a valid consumer choice

I have broken the first, the one-and-only, the golden rule of being a sommelier – never purchase wine because you like the label. I have broken this rule twice when it comes to this lovely Dolcetto di Dogliani, Pettirosso from … Continua a leggere

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Chionetti – dolcetto cru and that tremendo kind of wine

“When it comes to Dolcetto, you have to be a professional,” says Nicola Chionetti. And he adds that you have to be passionate about this variety. It’s difficult to grow and, he says, it’s “tremendo” to vinify, too. My first … Continua a leggere

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Don’t mention the ‘D’ word – in defence of Dolcetto

“It’s a blood pressure issue” my friend says at the mention of the dreaded ‘D’ word….. Dolcetto. And I can well believe it when I hear that Dolcetto is prone to disease, difficult to grow and difficult to vinify. The … Continua a leggere

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The great wine and grammar debate – barbera

I have been corrected – that it’s “IL barbera”, not “la”. I have heard that barbera is definitely female, to the point where there is even a book “La Barbera è femmina”, by Marzia Pinotti (I’ve yet to read it). … Continua a leggere

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Grandi Langhe 2019, day one

Introducing the 2015 Barolo vintage is certainly an exciting event for most people. I probably have no real right to be here and was certainly put in the “hangers-on” category by the girl at the door. I chose not to … Continua a leggere

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Ways with cugna – dessert recipe

Cugna….. I love the way even just the word feels in the mouth. The way it rolls around the ‘u’ and then opens onto the ‘a’. It promises for something hearty and I daresay this simple kind of Piedmontese mustard … Continua a leggere

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The Berkel

Only the Italians could reserve such reverence for a slicing machine. The Berkel sits quietly in its corner in our tasting room, beautiful and Ferrari red, all shiny chrome. A restored Berkel of grandeur, to be admired but not having … Continua a leggere

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Reborn Nascetta – white Barolo, 1

It was on a late summer visit to Elvio Cogno that I first tasted Nascetta – the local white Barolo grape variety that’s made a comeback in the middle of this red wine territory. Elvio Cogno as it turns out, … Continua a leggere

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The water of life – Langhe spirits

My sommelier book says that distillation sits between art and science. It’s a mysterious process and I often have visions of what goes on in those copper wombs. Volatile hearts and flying or sinking heads and tails as the case … Continua a leggere

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Nebbiolo grape juice – or what to do with your Italian neighbour’s produce

Italians are generous people and if you’re lucky enough to live here and have neighbours with veggie patches or fruit trees, you’ll know what I mean when I say that that generosity can sometimes be a challenge. From our friends … Continua a leggere

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